If you’re into aging Pinot Noir, here’s one to lay down with a reasonable certainty. It’s young, with a silky texture, and the oak, acids, alcohol and fruit haven’t knit together yet. But it’s massive in dark cherry, pomegranate and blackberry flavors. If you must drink it now, decant it. Even overnight isn’t too long. ——S.H.(3/1/2006)—— 91