Game and smoked meat, confitured cherry and plum are tinged with clove and black pepper on the nose of Chauvenet’s 2007 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Chaignots, then to on to truly stain the palate, while calling upon a reservoir of fresh fruit juiciness such one too seldom encounters – from bottle, at least – in this vintage. Hints of vanilla and caramel from toasted oak are nicely woven in, and there is refined tannin also not perturbed by effects of wood. Forest floor and continued carnal notes serve for some real depth and intrigue. The combination of rounded richness and sweetness of fruit with buoyancy and sufficient brightness as well as a touch of salinity to stimulate the salivary glands makes for a finish that ought to continue delighting for at least the next 6-8 years. Hubert Chauvenet testified to normal malos (i.e. finishing in spring – the wines’ first spring that is!). He points to the bright red of his successful 2008s as witness to the health of the corresponding fruit, whereas the 2007s had by the same stage already taken on a hint of garnet, and he tends to agree with me that many 2007s – in which, naturally he did not include his own! – were at their most exuberant and expressive while still in cask. Vigilant canopy-management and aggressive fruit-dropping have long been constants here. Chauvenet’s cellar has now been arranged to permit delivery of his fruit to the fermentation vats via conveyor and to eliminate pumping, and the refinement of tannins and clarity of fruit I witnessed in the best of these 2008s – especially considering that their author still favors high levels of new wood – can almost surely be traced to those developments. And speaking of clarity, Chauvenet pointed out that several of his 2008s are on the edge of what he deems acceptable turbidity and unfortunately resisted naturally clarifying to any greater degree. But after due consideration, he decided to bottle, as usual, without filtration, a wise move I would guess, given how well these 2008s have turned out.Imported by Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832 9083
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