Lavradores de Feitoria Quinta da Meruge, Douro, Portugal

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The 2009 Meruge is mostly Tinta Roriz with 20% "others," i.e., a field blend, aged in a mixture of new and used French barriques for 12 months. It comes in at 14.5% alcohol. This is another funky Meruge, laced with gamey nuances, but possessed of an elegant mid-palate and a surprisingly fresh feel in this big, warm vintage. It drinks well now, but it should hold on nicely, too, probably for most of the coming decade.