I have to admit the 2005 Langhe Freisa Toetto is an intriguing wine. Freisa is an indigenous red grape, but there aren’t too many producers making serious wines from this variety any more. Mascarello is one of them. The Toetto shows off pretty red fruit, herbs, anise and flowers in a somewhat austere, restrained style. Deceptively medium in body, the wine shows terrific balance and plenty of textural brilliance. This is a compelling, if eccentric, wine from Mascarello. It will be superb at the table, and at nearly six years of age, shows no signs of fading whatsoever. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2015. Proprietor Mauro Mascarello is best known for his Baroli, but his entry-level wines also merit considerable attention. The wines are always released on the late side, so finding the time to review them can be a challenge, hence their inclusion in this issue. I also had a chance to taste Mascarello’s 2007 Baroli from cask and they are living up to the immense promise I sensed when I first sampled them a few years ago. Importers: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484