Our in-depth retrospective from Montevertine starts with the 1980 Le Pergole Torte. This wine represents Sergio Manetti's first attempt to make a commercial wine, as opposed to a wine for personal consumption. His son Martino says that despite his father's efforts, it's fun to taste the slightly rustic and artisanal qualities here. There is a very light touch of volatile acidity that lifts quickly to reveal dried fruit, spice and dark mineral. You even get dried blood orange with honey and wild rose. All of these aromas fit squarely into the profile of aged Sangiovese. The nice thing is that, although the wine reveals tertiary tones, it does not deliver oxidative ones. This was a cool vintage, and the mouthfeel is lean and compact. There are subtle metallic-like notes on the close.