The 2005 Gruner Veltliner Wieden Tradition comes largely from a sandy Wieden site inside Stein, but urban development has so encroached on that plot that the Salomons now blend material from other locations and treat “Wieden” as a brand. That said, the wine is still recognizably of a piece with Wiedens past. A cherry, almond, cherry pit theme not uncommon among this year’s Gruner Veltliner, when combined with bright acidity, lends an aspect much like a hypothetical cross between Chablis and Saar Riesling, and the finish really grips and lays down cherry pit along with salty and chalky mineral traces. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Hochterrassen ($15.00; 85), 2005 Riesling Steinterassen ($17.00; 84 ), 2005 Riesling Kogel Reserve ($39.00; 86+?).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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