Nobody’s tried harder to get Sangiovese right than Iron Horse winemaker and co-owner Forrest Tancer, and here he’s succeeded as well as anyone in California. Straddles an exciting line between silky-smooth simplicity and textural complexity. Berries, spice and oak make for a fine red wine tonight, but dusty tannins indicate that a few years of aging might add interest.——S.H.(10/1/1999)—— 91