In a dramatic contrast with its Schlossberg sibling, the Barthelme’s 2007 Riesling Furstentum harbors 26 grams of residual sugar, which Maurice Barthelme explains in terms of the slow ripening in this site. Effusive aromas of heliotrope and of pink grapefruit and tangerine with their zesty pungency are joined on a lush, subtly oily palate by ripe peach. This finishes scintillatingly as well as less obviously sweet than its analysis would lead you to expect, in part due to efficacious acidity backing the impression of citricity, but also because of a tactile, chalk-dust like mineral suggestion as emphatic in its way as the striking family of mineral flavors that etch their way onto the palate in the Schlossberg. Expect 15-20 years of outstanding performance from this wine, which in its way is as unevolved as its bone-dry sibling. To say that Maurice and Jacky Barthelme are bullish on their 2007s would be an understatement, as they seem to think that this is their best collection going all the way back to the wonderful 1988s with which they debuted in the U.S. (and a number of which I am still enjoying). Since they have been among those Alsace vintners most concerned with restraining sugar accretion while promoting ripe flavors, it’s understandable that they view 2007 as having been especially welcome when compared with other very recent vintages. “In September there was just enough rain; in October no rain; November was wonderful,” comments Jacky Barthelme, “so, we had time to harvest and to select.” Barthelmes were also among those growers who sold off a portion of their 2006 crop in bulk and declassified portions into generic bottlings, but the resulting bottlings are among the finest of that vintage, for which the brothers in part – unsurprisingly – credit biodynamic preparations and fruit that could be picked ripe early. My laudatory reviews of the (for this estate typically) outstanding value Mann Auxerrois Vieilles Vignes and Pinot Blanc bottlings of vintage 2007 can be found in issue 178.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800
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