Ripe fruit wafts out of the glass. This is classy juice, with red and black berry flavors, stiff tannins, and a fine balance. It finishes with a complex, herbal set of flavors. The barrel aging has lent some dark notes of toasted coffee beans and bitter chocolate. This is a complete, interesting wine from an excellent vineyard, well-suited to long-term aging. ——P.G.(10/1/2001)—— 89