Blackcurrants and berries. Olives and chocolate. Dry. Lavish smoky oak. Dusty, refined tannins. Velvety smooth mouthfeel. Good stuff, but it could use more life. Higher acidity would help. We’re supposed to rate regardless of price but sticker shock is a fact of life. This is good but not great wine, and seriously overpriced. ——S.H.(6/1/2002)—— 87