The 2007 Cepas Vellas was sourced from the winery’s ancient vines, fermented in stainless steel, and aged for 12 months on its lees. Light gold-colored, it offers up a complex bouquet of mineral/chalk, sea salt, lemon curd, and other citrus aromas. Denser and rounder on the palate than the regular cuvee, it has remarkable depth of flavor and exceptional length. Albarino does not get much better than this. By the way, the importer vows that it will evolve for several years but there is no real reason to wait.Gerardo Mendez runs Do Ferreiro, a winery founded in 1973. He owns five hectares, three of which are over 50 years old and one 200 years of age. The wines are fermented with native yeasts and remain on the lees for at least six months.Importer: Andre Tamers, De Maison Selections, Chapel Hill, NC; www.demaisonselections.com