Now, here’s another inane piece of Grosses Gewachs idealogy. The regulations governing this category in the Pfalz (a category whose name, bear in mind, is not permitted to appear on the label) preclude having both a Grosses Gewachs bottling and an off-dry Spatlese labeled with the same site name. But the Burrweiler Schawer manifestly swings both ways, so the Mebmers have acquired rights to an obscure but historically significant and well-exposed nearby vineyard from which to craft their entry into the category Grosses Gewachs. Thus we have the 2004 Weyherer Michelsberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs, a wine that immediately announces its geological origins – like those of the Schawer – in grey slate. Peach, musk melon and wet stone aromas lead to a glossy palate saturated with a brothy, liquid mineral character rather analogous to that of a Chablis, and a forceful finish of pit fruits, melon, herb and stones. The astonishingly high quality achieved at this estate in the last several vintages – near the apex of the Pfalz pecking order – represent a hard act to follow. There have been a few personnel changes: first Werner Sebastian and then Michael Leibrecht have departed as vineyard manager and cellar master respectively, and Gregor Mebmer’s brother Martin (who showed me the wines this year) has joined the team. For whatever reason, there were not as many exciting wines this year as in other recent years, although there is one, by now almost predictably, that must on no account be missed. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300