Most consumers will open this too soon and miss where it’s going, but even now, in its extreme youth, it’s satisfying. Bone dry and crisp, with an elegantly silky texture, it shows refined flavors of cherries, minerals, cola, olive tapenade, tea and spices, and is a fine example of Carneros Pinot. But such are the tannins and acids that the wine will evolve through the next six years.——S.H.(2/1/2008)—— 93
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