A classic, pungent nose of lemon zest and peppermint and a snappy, bright, face-slapping impact on the palate all characterize the Schwarzbock 2007 Gelber Muskateller. After the brash initial impact, this offers a hint of creaminess, more breadth than one is want to expect from Muskateller, and a dark note of coffee. A common weakness of dry Muskateller is too brusque a finish, but the saline, juicy, lip-smacking finish on display here is having none of that problem. This delightful wine (grown very near the Riesling Pocken, incidentally) should be enjoyed over the next 12-18 months.Anita and Rudi Schwarzbock are among the numerous rising talents of the huge Weinviertel, farming nearby vineyards in Vienna as well. This is an estate worth following not just for its values, but for a manifest potential to render some superb wines.Importer:Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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