Pataille's 2006 Marsannay La Montagne is full of ripe though tart red fruits with hints of herbs and smoked meat; quite polished, almost creamy on the palate (in contrast with a number of wines in this collection); and refreshing in finish. Underlying suggestions of wet stone reinforce a certain sense of austerity, but this should prove welcome at table for the next several years. Sylvain Pataille (for more about whose fascinating projects, consult my report in issue 171) harvested late (starting September 25) and then quickly, strictly selecting his fruit, and netting yields that were very low. He felt confident in retaining a high percentage of whole clusters and stems – as he had in 2005 – but I found astringency and incipient brett diminished the appeal of several wines (cuvees which, unsurprisingly, Pataille took the precaution of filtering this year).A Becky Wassserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70