Smoke-wreathed, tart but bright red currant and purple plum inform the nose and palate of Louis Boillot’s 2008 Cotes De Nuits-Villages (from a site in Brochon next to Fixin’s Clos du Chapitre). One of several exceptions in this collection for still having been in barrel (not assembled to tank) in February, this may well gain harmony and charm from its additional stay there and will certainly be appealingly sappy and pungent over at least the nest 3-4 years. A village Fixin, also still in cask when I tasted it in February, was lean and chalky. Louis Boillot’s 2008s – all but three recently racked to tank when I tasted them in February, and due to have been bottled between April and June depending in part on the sensory evolution of their prominent acidity – represent one of those vintage collections that reminds one of the virtues of typical wines from two or more decades ago: restrained, a bit youthfully tart and tight, but back by admirable extract and energy, and likely to reward cellaring for at least the better part of a decade. Having described this collection as something of a throwback, I must note that Boillot said by the time he finished picking on October 4 his remaining fruit was already at 13.5% potential alcohol – riper than in 2007 – and only a few 2008 vintage lots in his entire cellar were chaptalized. The vintage reminds him of 1996 in terms of its acidity, but of the long under-rated 1972s overall. “I bottled a lot of magnums in 2008,” Boillot says with a confident twinkle in his eye. Unfortunately, time constraints precluded by tasting the 2007s from this cellar.Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990
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