They must have limited the crop on these vines, because the wine is more concentrated in fruity extract than many ’98 Cabs. It’s also lavishly oaked. Having said that, there are problems. It’s overly soft, even flabby, and lacks life; it’s like cola syrup without the carbonation. At this price, it lacks subtlety. ——S.H.(6/1/2002)—— 87