According to Michel Colin, the vines in his much-loved parcel of Puligny-Montrachet Les Demoiselles (white) did not suffer much in 2003, bringing in an almost normal load of 32 hectoliters per hectare. The wine explodes from the glass with copious quantities of spicy super-ripe apples, minerals, and toasty oak. Seductively silky on the palate, it offers a flavor profile reminiscent of flint and creamed white fruits. Medium-bodied, sporting outstanding depth of fruit, as well as a long, plush finish, this is a top-flight 2003 white Burgundy. Anticipated maturity: now-2012. Importers: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company., New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400; Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524; and Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185