Duboeuf's Cotes du Rhone estates include the Domaine des Moulins, of which the 1990 is a surprisingly dark ruby, nearly black-colored wine with great extract, unexpected density, and a rich, chewy, full style that is a result of low yields (40-45 hectoliters per hectare) and the blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah. If you are a follower of Duboeuf's wines, you know they generally favor elegance rather than power, but this offering is atypically rich, powerful and dramatic. Importers: William Deutsch and Sons, Chappaqua, NY and Wine Sellers, Skokie, IL.