Keller enters the big leagues with this marvelously layered Pinot Noir. For starters, it’s delicious. Dry and crisp, the flavors are of ripe cherries, raspberries, tangerines, pomegranates and cola, with smoky, spicy complexities from new French oak. The mouthfeel is smooth and velvety, leading to a long, fruity finish. Best now and through 2010.——S.H.(12/31/2007)—— 91