Weingut Emmerich Knoll Gruner Veltliner Beerenauslese, Wachau, Austria

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Knoll’s 2004 Gruner Veltliner Beerenauslese evinces an overtly fungal note on the nose, along with peach and rhubarb preserves and a hint of baking spices. On the palate, white pepper joins the brown spices in coating the jammy fruit, and the wine finishes with an impressively long, satisfying as well as intriguing counterpoint of bitter and sweet, jammy and tart fruit, all drenched in honey, spices, and a touch of white pepper. Observers of the Austrian scene who have not yet tasted one of these rare, nobly rotten, liqueur-like essences of the Gruner Veltliner grape simply do not know what they are missing. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700