Riesling is king at Domaine Marcel Deiss. I tasted seven totally distinct Rieslings with Deiss. The powerful 1994 Riesling Grasberg (13.8% natural alcohol) was made from low yields of only 1 ton per acre. It is an extremely well-focused, pure, medium-bodied Riesling with layers of fruit, well-integrated, high acidity, and a tight, backward, impenetrable style. However, it cuts a large path across the palate. At present, it is a wine to admire rather than enjoy. Give it 1-2 years of cellaring and drink it over the following 10-12. It will stand up to powerfully aromatic and flavorful dishes.Readers should realize that the 1994s are exceptionally young, relatively unevolved wines that are just beginning to hint at their potential.Robert Kacher: 2015 Vine Street NE, Washington, DC 20018; tel. (202) 832-9083, fax (202) 529-2579
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