Weingut Emmerich Knoll Ried Loibenberg Riesling Smaragd, Wachau, Austria

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Mouth-watering scents lemon, lavender, red raspberry, and sea salt lend the Knoll 2007 Riesling Smaragd Loibenberg a rather Nahe-like complexion. Long-lined, refined in texture, and formidably concentrated, this offers slightly less succulent, juicy satisfaction today than the nose has led one to expect (or desire). But there is compensatory complexity of an essentially mineral sort and an impressive degree of cut to the finish. This will need a couple of years in bottle, I suspect, and should keep well for at least 5-6. Like many of their neighbors, the Knolls harvested Federspiel already in late September, but then largely sat out the rains for three weeks before commencing to pick Smaragd. Botrytis-affected clusters were segregated and pressed immediately, and even the entirely healthy portion of the crop was given less skin contact than usual. A few botrytized rows or parcels were left to hang for nobly sweet wine (in a vintage where few Wachauer followed suit) although not from Riesling. I continue to long for the return of a vintage wherein the Knoll Gruner Veltliner outshines their Riesling, as has not happened for some years now. As has once again become the norm here, none of the Smaragd (save for the Muskateller) were bottled before late summer of last year, and my most recent notes are from cask (or occasionally tank).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

Rich, but with a delicious aerial character, floating the white fruits over fresh acidity, green apple and peach flavors and a final delicate touch of mineral and spice. The wine is developing well, bringing forward its fine texture, delicate initially and then rounding in the mouth.——R.V.(7/1/2009)—— 90