This is the kind of full-bodied, dry red wine that you can set on your table with complete confidence because it’s world-class good. Rich, ripe fruit is nicely balanced with earthy, tobacco flavors, the whole framed in soft but complex tannins and plush oak. It’s fairly high in acidity, which may have been added later, but works to offset the ripe sweetness with tart crispness. ——S.H.(6/1/2002)—— 91