Albert Seltz Gewurztraminer, Alsace, France

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The Seltz 2008 Gewurztraminer represents value of a sort I didn't think still existed with this grape variety, and partisans of traditionally dry, full-bodied (in this instance 14.5% alcohol) renditions of it (of which I'm one myself) will be delighted. A lovely nose of sweet pea, fig, celery root, honeydew melon, and rose petal leads into a soft, expansive palate marked by faintly bitter herb and melon rind, rose water, mint, celery root, and white pepper. There is not a lot of grip on display, but instead one gets an enveloping richness of texture combined with relatively -cool- flavors refreshingly deployed, and lingering with considerable subtlety and very slight bitterness but no appreciable heat.Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799