Maryhill Zinfandel, Columbia Valley, USA

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Maryhill is making more Zin than anyone in Washington, and has proven that there is a place for it there. The fruit is ripe but not jammy, and the acids stay up there despite the high 15% alcohol. Bright berries and a kiss of oak set the style; there’s a touch of Mendocino-style incense in the finish. ——P.G.(9/1/2004)—— 87