This is a good price for a wine of this complexity, depth and overall interest. It’s crisp and citrusy, with lemongrass and pineapple flavors enriched with one-fifth Semillon, which brings a nutty, buttery nuance, and it’s hard to believe there’s no oak at all, because of all the cream. Grown entirely at Gainey’s Home Ranch, in one of the best Sauvignon Blanc areas of California. ——S.H.(5/1/2007)—— 88
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