The effect not only of relatively early harvest but also slightly higher elevation back from the Rhine seems to make itself felt in the clarity and lift exhibited by Knyphausen’s 2006 Kiedricher Sandgrub Riesling Kabinett feinherb. And while this wine tastes essentially dry, its element of residual sugar is critical in counteracting any tendency toward austerity, and in reinforcing the lovely sense of floral perfume offered in nose. Saline, chalk, and meat stock lend a Chablis-like aspect not uncommon in dry Riesling from Kiedrich, and this finishes not just with fascinating minerality, but with lift and elegance. Enjoy it over the next 3-5 years. Gerko zu Knyphausen’s sites (most near the Rhine shore) fared variably in the difficult 2006 vintage, and those he picked soonest (or from higher elevations) – even if ostensibly of lesser pedigree –turned out best.Importer: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel. (918) 622-0424