The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Les Aubues confirms its promising showing from barrel, delivering a lovely bouquet of white currants, fresh peach, lemon oil and almond paste. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, racy and chiseled, with terrific cut and concentration, concluding with a long, chalky finish. As readers will remember, this derives from a superbly situated enclave within Les Enceignères.