Soft and approachable, this chocolaty wine has an almost Pinot-like delicacy to the fruit. It’s darker of course, and lavishly oaked, but somehow the buttery caramel barrel flavors do not entirely overwhelm the fruit, which is tart and spicy and sharp. Perhaps a bit less oak would have been optimal, but it’s drinking well and offers pleasing, complimentary flavors of fruit, butter and oak.——P.G.(3/1/2008)—— 86
