The 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes is superb, with layers and layers of fruit, oodles of glycerin and a full-bodied mouthfeel. The tell-tale licorice, balsam wood, and intense cherry liqueur, roasted herbs and a crushed rock sort of minerality are present in the spectrum of flavors and aromas that this wine presents. Full-bodied and deep, this is a stunner that should drink well for 15 or more years. (Not yet released)Michel Maret’s estate of 45+ acres is primarily in the eastern and northern sectors of the appellation, with large holdings in La Crau and the well-known lieu-dit of Brusquieres. His daughters, Caroline and Veronique, seem to be taking over more and more of the responsibilities and add to the remarkable number of women who seem to be in positions of influence and control in Chateauneuf du Pape. There are always four cuvees in the top vintages, but the Marets have added a fifth cuvee, dominated by Mourvedre with the balance Grenache, called L’Envol. This wine is a completely different take on Chateauneuf du Pape, one I am seeing appear more frequently in my tastings. The 2009s all performed better out of bottle than they did last year. These are classic, traditional styles of Chateauneuf du Pape. As insiders know, the finest value from the Maret family is their Vacqueyras made from the 10 acres they own in that appellation.Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173
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