Readers should not miss the 2008 La Proportion Doree, a 660-case blend of 68% Semillon, 30% Sauvignon Blanc, and 2% Muscadelle. It is a superb example of what can be done with French savoir-faire and California grapes. Glorious aromas of honeyed caramelized figs, honeysuckle, melons, and orange blossoms are followed by a medium to full-bodied white with beautiful acidity, length, and richness. A tour de force in dry white winemaking, it should drink nicely for 3-4 years. This is a brilliant portfolio of wines from Frenchman Luc Morlet. Production for these cuvees ranges from a low of 75 cases for several of the Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, to a high of 660 cases for the Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadelle blend called La Proportion Doree. Only indigenous yeasts are used in the fermentations as well as 100% French oak barrels, there is no fining or filtration, and all the wines are made with a hand-crafted zeal for high quality. The 2007 and 2008 Chardonnays would make a tremendous comparative tasting to decide which vintage turned out better. In most cases, 2007 gets the nod, but at this estate, it’s pretty much a dead heat. I suspect the only way to secure any of the Morlet Family Vineyards’ wines is to get on their mailing list. Tel. (707) 967-8690; Fax (707) 967-8590