I am not particularly enthusiastic about Cabernet in the Marches, often heavy and monotonous, and I don’t see why the local producers can’t concentrate their efforts on their own grapes and the excellent results they often give. I am willing to make an exception for Boccadigabbia, however, which operates in an area with a limited viticultural tradition, particularly when the results are as good as the 2001 Akronte, an inky ruby in color, very expressive in its notes of black currant fruit, sweet herbs, licorice, and minerals, full but with plenty of energy and length as well, firm in its tannins but with much suppleness and elegance of texture. It will drink well for another 15 years. Importer: A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

This is a delightfully chewy, extracted and penetrating wine that oozes blackness: Black licorice, black fruit, resin, slate, charcoal and chalkboard grow in intensity with each swirl. A very intense, modern wine that sees 18 months of oak aging for taut tannins and a supple, velvety mouthfeel. Would pair well with aged cheeses or grilled meats.——M.L.(9/1/2006)—— 93