The vineyard, in the little-known appellation of Sonoma Mountain, is source to many wineries, and quality has varied. In Tandem’s hands, it has produced a magnificent wine, rich, dry and balanced. Pale in color, with crisp acidity and a smoothly tannic structure, it shows opulent flavors of cherries, persimmons, cola and sweet, smoky oak, with earthy, mushroomy complexities. Brilliant now, and should develop for several years.——S.H.(5/1/2008)—— 93
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