The 1997 Zinfandel Monte Rosso Grand Reserve offers lofty levels of alcohol (15.8%), but don't let that scare you. This is an extremely concentrated, rich, gloriously exuberant, full-throttle Zinfandel that is complete in the mouth. The alcohol is well-hidden behind layers of unctuously-textured, fleshy, blackberry and cherry fruit. The oak adds complexity. To its credit, this wine has not been excessively acidified, thus the texture is open-knit and expansive. Drink this hedonistic, full-bodied Zinfandel over the next 3-4 years.Tel. (707) 963-9100

Some may call it personal prejudice, but I’ve yet to taste a Monte Rosso Zin that excited me (and yes, this was tasted and rated blind). This one is full of jammy berry fruit and features a tomato-leaf component. Verges on being too sweetly fruity.——J.C.(5/1/2000)—— 85