Tough and chewy now, with a fibrous, tannic mouthfeel like a bite of beef jerky. Similar flavors, too, of teriaki beef, but the underlying fruit is massive, offering waves of cherries, black raspberries, currants and cola. This is a very fine wine, but an immature one. Give it 4–6 years in the cellar, if you can keep your hands off. ——S.H.(6/1/2010)—— 92