The 2006 Ruster Ausbruch On the Wings of Dawn (from a blend of grape featuring Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, and Welschriesling) features orange marmalade, peach preserves, a brine-like mineral note, and nutmeg and cinnamon spice. Strikingly viscous yet ethereal in its sense of lift and pure, honeyed manifestation of botrytis, and with an early aura of caramelization, this wine of 10% alcohol manages to hide much of its 200 grams of residual sugar, and its persistent salinity helps keep its long, honeyed finish savory and stimulating. It should keep well for at least a decade. Heidi Schrock’s dry white collection from 2007 reflects the precocity and incipient botrytis of the vintage in the wines’ ripeness and amplitude, yet there is a sense of minerality and above all a leavening of fresh fruit acids that her lush, at times heady 2006s lacked. “From the 10th of September, we had gorgeous weather,” she relates, “and we brought everything in quickly.”Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300