The 2005 Riesling Smaragd Setzberg, harvested in late October from largely young vines in a bed of pure gneiss, vividly displays ginger, white peach, and lime from its bouquet to its striking finish, where these flavors are joined by a dramatic and yet conceptually illusive sense of minerality. There is an imposingly slick, faintly oily feel in the mouth which offers an attractive counterpart to the wine’s refreshing lime citricity. From this vintage, it appears one should set aside a few bottles of Setzberg to join one’s Hochrain and Singerriedel in the cellar – although bear in mind that Hirtzberger’s Rieslings seem never to be as long-lived as are his best Gruner Veltliner. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Steinfeder Donaugarten (not available; 85).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700