The indifferent 1998 Shiraz Hyland is medium-bodied and muted. It is a good value.Importer: Old Bridge Cellars (Rob McDonald), Napa, CA; tel. (707) 258-9552

Though it’s a little on the tight side, the Penley’s palate shows black- cherry and smoked-meat flavors, and a red-berry-and-spice finish. Reviewers were up in arms about whether it was smoked meat and mint, or marshmallow, hot pepper and cake flour on the nose. In any case, an unusual bouquet. Give it two or three years.——W.E.(11/1/2001)—— 87