Grown on what he terms “fat gravels” with warm, dry southern and southeastern (rather than more Jura-typical western) exposure, Puffeney’s 2009 Arbois Trousseau Les Berangeres further reflects the generosity of its vintage, with ripe black raspberry fruit dominating both nose and palate, notes of Assam tea and black pepper adding pungent interest. Notwithstanding its relative ripeness, this is – like so many other Jura reds – white wine-like in its sense of levity and refreshment. Chalk, salt, and black raspberry seeds convey invigoration to a long finish. This ought to show well for at least 4-5 more years. (Tasted alongside, the 2003 was incredibly youthful and bright for its age and vintage, and the 14.5% alcohol Trousseau achieved that year at the end of August – a record level for Puffeney – wasn’t at all evident. No wonder the sites around Montigny-les-Arsures where these grow are often spoken of as the best terroir for Trousseau.)
Jacques Puffeney of Montigny-les-Arsures is among the Jura’s most prestigious, engaging, and (thanks to the rotund amplitude of both his torso and white-bearded visage) easily recognized vignerons, and crafts wines no less distinctive – if much less massive – than their author. With the exceptions of Pinot Noir, vin jaune, and his few sweet wines – all of which are matured in older barriques – Puffeney relies on ancient foudres, of which I have not seen such a collection as his outside of Alsace or Chateauneuf-du-Pape; and he is favorably inclined to long elevage even for non-oxidative lots, which can themselves thus come off as if influenced by flor or other living denizens of the cask. Puffeney’s reds, too – often cited as among the region’s best – are bottled significantly later than the regional norm. He farms roughly 6 acres of Chardonnay, much of it melon a queue rouge; 5 acres of Savagnin; and 7.5 acres of reds, and says that his father – who actively selected and planted at a young age – is to thank for the 50-year average age of vine Puffeney fils now enjoys.
Imported by Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990
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