The 2004 Riesling Schlossberg leads with smoky, nutty, and faintly bitter citrus zest and fruit pit aromas, offers considerable breadth and richness but not clarity on the palate, and finishes on apricot, nut oils, and bitter apricot kernel and mineral notes. I would opt to enjoy this rich Riesling over the next 2-3 years, since time will not bring clarity, and its bitterness might overtake the fruit. The dynamic trio of Fallers continues to bottle some of France’s (hardly just Alsace’s) richest and most flamboyant wines. Beginning with 2005, all of their vineyards are being biodynamically farmed. Laurence Faller finds their 2005s in general “more focused and clear” (this was especially true of Riesling) despite their often prominent botrytis component, and the 2004s richer. I suppose it goes without saying, but one has to carefully scrutinize each Weinbach label, so numerous are the cuvees. And as wonderful as is the distinctiveness exhibited by the vast majority of wines here, even a geek like yours truly could be forgiven for asking whether somewhat fewer different ottling might benefit consumers as well as journalists!Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802
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