The 2002 Cobos Malbec Marchiori Vineyard was picked the morning after a heavy rain flooded the vineyard but it was nonetheless a great growing season. The wine is a glass-coating purple in color, thick and rich in appearance. The aromatic array includes smoke, mineral, violets, plums, blackberry, and black cherry along with a slight baked character that was also present in a second bottle. On the palate the wine exudes power in its layered, opulent personality. Attractive spice notes emerge along with hints of espresso and chocolate. The lengthy finish is loaded with fruit and the wine’s superb balance suggests at least a decade of further evolution and a drinking window that should remain open through 2035. Vina Cobos is Paul Hobbs’ winery in Mendoza. He is better known (at least for the moment) to USA connoisseur/collectors for his namesake winery in Napa Valley which has received many accolades (including 100-point scores from Robert Parker) for its Cabernets, Pinot Noirs, and Chardonnays. What is less well known is that Hobbs is a pioneer in fine wine production in Argentina, having started there in 1988 with Nicolas Catena. Senor Catena gives Hobbs much credit for the success of Catena-Zapata’s Chardonnay program. He has since extended his consulting efforts both in Argentina and Chile but the capstone of Hobbs’ work is Vina Cobos which began in 1998 and moved into its own winery facility in 2007. The first vintage of the top-of-the-line Cobos Malbec Marchiori Vineyard was 1998 but it was ruined by rain and never sold in the USA. 2000 and 2001 were not up to par, 2000 being the El Nino year and 2001 being too dilute, resulting in their declassification.Importer: Paul Hobbs Imports, Sebastopol, CA; tel. (707) 824-9879

This ultra extracted, inky Malbec comes from a partnership that includes Paul Hobbs, and while you cannot argue with the wine’s density, purity and power, it probably isn’t for everyone. With 14.8% alcohol, a ton of color and loads of clove-packed oak, it’s giant. Perhaps you wish it less aggressive and more approachable. Or maybe you outright love it, like we did. Regardless, it needs three years of bottle age, that or several hours of air if you plan to drink it now.——M.S.(3/1/2005)—— 93