Minges’ 2009 Gleisweiler Holle Riesling Spatlese juxtaposes lemon zest and apple pip with honey and mirabelle preserves. There is a hard-to-describe sense of mineral matter here, offering intrigue and suggesting that this wine may simply need more time to reveal its potential, or that a certain sweet-tart tension may prove more productive with time. This is probably destined to perform well for at least a decade. Despite picking into November, Theo Minges was one of those Sudpfalzer who had no trouble retaining acidity in 2009. Indeed, some of his dry offerings practically left me wanting to don sunglasses during our tasting session. As has become usual at this address, the collection is enormously diverse (and I do not usually taste nearly all of its non-Riesling members). “There are a lot of growers,” jokes Minges, “who have an enormous range of wines because they don’t sell well, so the grower keeps trying something new. I go out to the vineyard, get inspired, have a vision, and then I feel compelled to carry it out. And this repeats itself however many times …Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300