The Hirsch 2004 Gruner Veltliner Heiligenstein assaults the nose with a right hook of peppery pungency and then delivers a clear clean blow of citrus, herbs, lentils and mineral mass for a palate-saturating, if relatively austere finish that leaves the taster refreshed and ready for the next round. Like their top Rieslings, the Hirsch’s 2004 Gruner Veltliner Lamm was still in tank when I tasted. It was giving a very disjointed and awkwardly tart account of itself in June, and I shall defer my assessment until after bottling. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300