The 2008 Syrah Seven Hills Vineyard Estate (100%) spent 18 months in 30% new French oak. It is more complex aromatically than the Columbia Valley cuvee with notes of toasty oak, bacon, smoked meat, pepper, lavender, and assorted black and blue fruits. Bordering on opulent on the palate, it gives up tons of flavor and coats the mouth. It is likely to blossom for another 1-2 years but can be approached now. L’Ecole No. 41, under the leadership of Marty Clubb, is one of Walla Walla’s pioneers, the third modern day winery in the Valley. Over the years the winery has prospered, outgrown the namesake schoolhouse, and has now outgrown the charming label which may have contributed to its fame. Be that as it may, L’Ecole now produces about 35,000 cases with distribution in all 50 states and abroad. Despite the expansion, quality has remained consistently excellent as has pricing. Tel. (509) 525-0940; www.lecole.com

Deep and fruity, this hits you with a dense core of black cherry, strawberry preserves and cooked raisins. Interesting details emerge throughout as it runs across the palate: pepper and herb, baking spices and light chocolate. Good balance and length, but drink up soon.——P.G.(12/1/2010)—— 90