From the winery that claims to have introduced Petite Sirah as a varietal wine comes this dynamic bottling. It’s full-bodied, dry and tannic, with a deep undertow of blackberry, cherry, plum and coffee flavors, and has a complex structure. Will be beautiful with a grilled steak, but this is a wine you can stash away for at least a decade. ——S.H.(12/1/2005)—— 92