The estate’s 2004 Valpolicella Superiore reveals smoke, cocoa, roasted coffee beans, leather and sweet fruit with excellent length and a slightly bitterish note on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2012. Marco Sartori is the young, ambitious proprietor at Roccolo Grassi. Unlike many of his colleagues, Sartori leaves the fruit for his Amarone to dry for a shorter time as he believes this approach allows him to achieve concentration in the vineyard while allowing the wines to remain fresh in the bottle. The Soave and Valpolicella are made from the estate’s younger plants while the oldest vines are used for the Amarone and the Reciotos. Sartori prefers to age his wines predominantly in French oak. This is a beautiful set of wines from one of Veneto’s most promising young producers. Importer: Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500; Artisan Wine, Norwalk, CT; tel. (203) 866-4552