The Tapteil vineyard designate is 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cab Franc and 32% Merlot, from vines that are now 20 years old. With each new vintage the wine seems to gain in detail as a result. Tapteil fruit is distinguished by a distinctive dustiness, and sports an elegant structure whoselightness belies its power. With its spicy, acidic berry flavors, and hints of smoke and leather, this has an Italian personality as well.——P.G.(3/1/2009)—— 91