The label includes the words “Original Vines” written along the side, a nod to the history of this limited reserve, gleaned from vines planted by founder David Lett in 1965. It’s steely and sharp edged, with sculpted fruit and limited use of new oak. Cellarworthy and distinctive, this wine rewards your attention and patience with unexpected layers of detail.——P.G.(8/1/2011)—— 91