This South Central Coaster's tart cherry-rhubarb fruit wears a lot of wood and an odd briney (to some), wet-furry (to others) veil. The palate shows cedar and chocolate notes, but in this case the whole is less than the sum of its parts. Slightly syrupy, it finishes short, a mix of parts that don't cohere that well——W.E.(11/1/2001)—— 84